TIJUANA is the Mexican border town - with every virtue and vice that this implies. More than 36 million people cross the border every year - the vast majority of them staying only a few hours - so it can boast with some justification of being the "World's Most Visited City". There's no shortage of reasonable hotels, although as you'd expect, most things are far more expensive than they are further south. Above all the town is geared towards dealing with hordes of day-trippers, which means hundreds of souvenir stands, cheap doctors, dentists and auto-repair shops, and countless bars and restaurants, pricey by Mexican standards but cheaper than anything you'll find in San Diego. One thing you won't find much of any more - at least not anywhere near the centre of town - is the prostitution and the sex shows for which the border towns used to be notorious. Tijuana does still thrive on gambling though, with greyhound racing every evening; jai alai from 8pm every night except Wednesday in the huge downtown Frontón Palacio; and bullfights throughout the summer (May-Sept) at two rings, one right on the coast, the other at the southeast of the centre. The parts of the city most tourists don't see fit less easily into expectations. Modern Tijuana is among the wealthiest cities in the Mexican republic, buoyed up by the region's duty-free status and by maquiladora assembly plants. Downtown, beyond the areas where most tourists venture, the modern concrete and glass wouldn't look amiss in southern California. The flip side of the boom lies along the border, where shantytowns sprawl for miles.

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