 The
state capital OAXACA sprawls across a grand expanse
of deep-set valley, 1600m above sea level, some 500km
southeast of Mexico City. Its colour, folklore, numerous
fiestas, the huge extent of its indigenous market and
its thoroughly colonial centre combine to make this
one of the most popular, and most rewarding destinations
for travellers, many of whom come here to study. Even
the increase in package tourism and the pedestrianization
of Macedonia Alcalá, the main thoroughfare from
the zócalo to the cathedral, a street now lined
with high-class handicraft and jewellery shops, have
done little to destroy the city's gentle appeal. Furthermore,
Oaxaca is also widely seen as the artistic centre of
Mexico, with several state-run and private galleries,
resident artists, art and jewellery master classes and
regular exhibitions (including free ones in the zócalo).
In the market and in shops everywhere, you'll find Oaxaca's
trademark fantastical and fantastically coloured model
animals.
Oaxaca is becoming an industrial city - the population
is well over 200,000, the streets choked and noisy,
with large numbers of people choosing to retreat here
from Mexico City, resulting in an increase in property
values - yet it seems set to remain easy to handle.
In the colonial centre, thanks to strict building regulations,
the provincial charm is hardly affected, and just about
everything can be reached on foot. Provincial it remains,
too, in its habits - the big excitements are dawdling
in a café, or gathering in the famous zócalo
to stroll and listen to the town band; by eleven at
night much of the city is asleep, although late-night
dancers are still going strong. Surrounding Oaxaca is
some fantastic topography, making an impressive backdrop
to the city skyline at sunset. The Sierra Madre del
Sur enters Oaxaca state from the west, while the Sierra
Madre de Oaxaca runs down from Mexico's central volcanic
belt. The two ranges meet in the centre of the state
and between them, converging in Oaxaca town, lie the
three Valles Centrales.
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