 For
the casual visitor the modern city is in many ways a
disappointment. Its spring-like climate remains, but
as capital of the state of Morelos, Cuernavaca is rapidly
becoming industrialized and the streets in the centre
permanently clogged with traffic and fumes. The gardens
and villas that shelter the rich are almost all hidden
behind high walls, or in districts so far out that you
won't see them. It seems an ill-planned and widely spread
city, certainly not easy to get about on foot, though
much of what you'll want to see is close to the centre
and accessible on foot. Food and lodging come relatively
expensive, in part thanks to the large foreign contingent,
swelled by tourists and by students from the many language
schools. On the other hand, the town is attractive enough
and makes a good base for heading north to the village
of Tepoztlán, with its raucous fiesta, or south
to the ruins of Xochicalco . If you are at all interested
in Mexican history, it may also be worthwhile taking
a trip to Cuautla, where Emiliano Zapata is buried in
the Jardín Revolución del Sur.
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